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Jun 6, 2025 · By Izakaya Juraku · 4 min read

Santanera: The Tequila That Prints the Fermentation Season on the Label

Almost every tequila label tells you the category and the proof. Santanera tells you how old the agave was and what season it was fermented in.

That is a strange thing to print, until you understand why they think it matters.

The House Rule

Santanera's position is simple and they repeat it on every page: natural tequila, free of any artificial coloring, flavoring or additive. The recipe is organic agave and water.

They grow their own agave and hand-select the plants at what they call Primera Calidad, peak maturity. Because they control the farming, they can put the agave's age on the front label, which they point out most producers cannot.

Why the Season Is on the Bottle

This is the genuinely interesting part, and it is a good lesson in how fermentation actually works.

Santanera uses wild yeast that develops naturally from the agave and its surroundings, rather than a commercial strain pitched into every tank. Wild yeast behaves differently at different temperatures, and they do not climate-control it into uniformity. So the season leaves a mark, and they document what they have observed:

Spring, March to May. Moderate temperatures, balanced fermentation, smooth tequila with floral and herbaceous notes.

Summer, June to August. High temperatures speed fermentation up, giving fresher and fruitier results with more intensity and acidity.

Autumn, September to November. Cooler temperatures allow a more controlled fermentation, producing fruity and spiced tequila with balanced sweetness and floral notes.

Winter, December to February. Low temperatures slow everything down, creating more complex, earthy, herbaceous tequila with greater depth and structure.

Most large producers spend real money making sure none of this happens. Santanera prints it on the label instead.

Concrete, Not Steel

They ferment in concrete vats rather than stainless. Their reasoning: concrete is microporous, so it oxygenates better, and it insulates better than steel, which keeps the must at a stable temperature.

The point is avoiding temperature spikes that would harm the wild yeast. Inside a concrete vat everything moves more gradually, without sudden thermal swings.

The Tahona

Tahona is an Arabic word meaning mill. The tool is a large stone carved into a wheel, mounted to a post at the center of a circular pit, traditionally pulled around by a donkey or a mule while cooked agave is crushed underneath it.

For their Tahona collection, Santanera presses the agave with a volcanic stone tahona. Their description of the effect: the juice comes out more concentrated, which gives a broader aromatic range and a longer finish.

It is slow, and that is the entire trade. A roller mill extracts more sugar faster. A tahona extracts less, more gently, and takes some of the plant fiber along with it.

What "Kosher" Means Here

Santanera's Kosher collection carries a certification, and their explanation is worth repeating because the label confuses people.

Kosher certification means the product passed strict controls confirming it is fit for a Jewish table, verified by an inspector, typically a rabbi, who certifies that all procedures meet the standard. It has become a broadly recognized quality mark well beyond its original purpose.

The producer's own notes for the Kosher Blanco: a honeyed nose with botanical nuances, cooked agave and crystallized fig, then lime peel, fresh anise, menthol and epazote, and further back vanilla pod, chamomile flower and honey, closing on a long pepper finish.

Three on Our Shelf

We carry the Kosher Blanco, the Tahona, and one of the small organic batches, Ceniza. Same philosophy behind all three, different process decisions in front of it.

Try It at Juraku

Santanera is part of the agave selection at Izakaya Juraku, Lower East Side. These are small batches by design, so check the current menu or ask the bar what is open.